Oh to wake up in a real castle in Bulawayo in Zimbabwe! It seemed like a fairytale. Trevor and I wandered down the narrow passageways to reception. I introduced Trevor to Yvonne, who was instantly smitten, like everybody is. He’s quite a popular little chap with his gorgeous boots and he’s a great conversation-starter. After all it’s not often you see a grown woman walking around with a teddy under her arm! I left Trevor in Yvonne’s caring hands and went to the Breakfast Room where I had a full English Breakfast (including a piece of steak!) at a 20-seater banqueting table. It was all very grand and considering I hadn’t had anything to eat for about 12 hours this went down very well!
After a cup of tea, Yvonne showed me around the Nesbitt Castle, including a few of its 10 suites. The Dungeon suite really took my fancy with its four-poster bed and everything swathed in red. Two of the suites have twin beds and all of them have an en-suite. They are all quite opulent with beautiful furnishings and heavy colours. I was shown the Billiard Room with its huge snooker table, the library , the conference room, the boardroom and various lounges. All of these are filled with antiques and beautiful furniture and each one needs an hour or two alone to explore.
After a chat and a cuppa with one of the managers, Patrick (who told me all sorts of interesting things about Zimbabwe, including the fact that Bulawayo only has its water turned on for one or two days of the week!), I was shown around the grounds by Godfrey, who has been at Nesbitt Castle for 25 years (and who also helped with the restoration). He took me to the Lee Chapel which is popular for weddings (and I can see why) and to the small game park with its impala, ducks and tortoises. We took a walk to the waterfall and enjoyed an amble through the beautiful gardens which were so green and lush. The trees must be as ancient as the castle and there’s ivy twisting up the medieval walls.
We popped into The Coach House, their award-winning restaurant, where guests and visitors can enjoy a three-course meal (US$25) or a two course meal (US$20). They also do a Sunday roast. There’s a choice of menus, which they rotate, but you can expect delicious fare like Braised Hake Fillets with a Champagne and Dill Sauce, Grilled Lemon Sole served with a Shrimp Sauce, Flame Grilled Beef Fillet served with a Black Mushroom Sauce, Nesbitt Castle Chicken Cordon Bleu served with a Coconute sauce and Chocolate Mousse served in Tulip Cups. How decadently delicious! By now I really wishing I had not left Botswana so late as I could’ve indulged in dinner!
I know I am gushing, but I think this is the greatest find on my travels. The sad part is that not many people know about it (even people who have lived in Bulawayo for 30 years have only just discovered it) and while there is a wedding there almost every day (the chapel is so romantic and they have facilities to cater for 250 people in their marquee, so not surprising) not many people actually stay there. So if you are going to Bulawayo on your travels, give Nesbitt Castle a call on + 263-9-282735/6, or email them on [email protected] and book a night or two. I promise you will find it every bit as magical as I did.
Running late as usual Trevor and I set off for Harare at about 14h00. I really should’ve learnt by now that 500 odd kilometres does not mean a five hour drive! But sometimes some things deserve a little more time and I really would’ve loved to stay at the castle for another night!
The A5 road to Harare led me through Gweru, Kwekwe, Kadoma, Chegutu and Norton. It was by all means a good road, a bit patchy in places, but no major potholes. I soon learnt that most potholes are near bridges and close to towns. The towns themselves didn’t have good roads and one needs to keep their wits about them for wayward drivers, taxis and potholes! We stopped in Gweru where man with a beaming smile and a Christmas hat perched on his head helped me find an Econet SIM card in Shop number 11 in a dingy mall. We also stopped in Kadoma to get a coke (US$5) and to use the loo. That in itself was amusing as I had to use the men’s because someone had stolen the key for the ladies loo the day before! It wasn’t pleasant, but if you have to go, you have to go! Thank goodness for wet wipes in the car as there was no water to wash your hands.
We passed by people selling vegetables and bundles of wood (apparently illegal) on the side of the road as well as few roadblocks that we were waved through. Everything was green and all the towns had beautiful Jacaranda and Flamboyant trees lining the streets. Zimbabwe may have its problems, but it is still a beautiful country to drive through.
There were toll gates before each of the major towns (we went through three from Bulawayo to Harare) and the fee for a car is one US Dollar. I was amused at the basicness of it all – unlike South African tollgates, these ones just have a man with a book filled with US notes (I wonder if they actually go to the road fund!) who takes your money and a few policemen (to make sure you pay and don’t try steal the book filled with money). Try have the exact amount as the notes you get back in change are filthy!
My mom had sent directions to her house and I had to laugh – she said “when you hit the bright lights of Harare look out for Marimba shopping centre on your right”. Marimba shopping centre was there alright, but there were no bright lights! Not a single street light was working and the only bright lights were the ones in your face from the other cars. This must be the only city I have ever driven through where you need your brights on! Needless to say I got lost as it is difficult to see the street names when you are trying to avoid the potholes (lots by traffic lights) and you have car lights in your face. But eventually, at 21h00 I found it. Many hugs, a huge feeling of relief and my favourite home-cooked meal of meatballs and mash with peas followed. I had made it and there were only three hours to go until Christmas day.
It’s been an incredible 2 600km to get here, but what an experience. I have seen things that you would never see if you flew in. I have met some really great people. I have stayed in quaint places and slept in rooms fit for royalty. Everyone has been unbelievably helpful, even the border officials. There’s been sunshine and thunderstorms, acacia trees and maize fields. Trevor makes an excellent travelling partner and my little red Getz has done me proud. I will admit that the Plumtree border post almost put me off ever driving to Zimbabwe again, but I realise that I am probably judging it at a bad time. The festive season is not always a good time to travel and all things considered, we have done well.
Talking of the festive season, I am now going to enjoy a few days with my mom and Trevor will have his first Christmas in Harare! The next big trip is back along the way I came to Bulawayo and then on to Victoria Falls for the Vic Falls Carnival.
Happy Christmas! Catch you where there is smoke that thunders…
Follow me on Twitter, @Rachel_CapeTown (#ZimPilgrim), email me at [email protected], or keep an eye on my blogs on the Getaway website.
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