Umlalazi Nature Reserve holds an assortment of memories for me, but one of the most memorable is the time I inadvertently surprised a potentially lethal Southern Vine Snake. Unbeknownst to me, this long, skinny, venomous snake was solar-powering itself on the handrail of the entrance boardwalk to Umlalazi’s South Beach. This is the entrance, sans the snake.
Read more of KZN green spaces: four sustainable activities in Kosi Bay
Walking on a wooden boardwalk generates noise and vibration, and as we were walking, my husband swiftly and silently grabbed my arm and stopped me in my tracks. Something had dropped onto the wooden planks in front of us.
A red tongue, tipped with black, flicked from its mouth. The horizontal, keyhole shaped pupil was unmistakeable: a Southern vine snake. Our unexpected presence had given it a fright – hence it fell off the handrail and onto the wooden walkway. Thankfully these are timid snakes, because no antidote for their bite exists here in South Africa.
We stood still and watched as it gracefully slithered into a bush next to the boardwalk, rendering itself invisible amongst the branches. I wonder how many I’ve walked under, or past, during my hours of coastal forest trails… probably best not to think about it!
Umlalazi is a happy place for herpers, birders and nature lovers. If you can get past the odd snake on the boardwalk it leads you to a wild expanse of beach. You can walk left or right for kilometres, sometimes not encountering another person. We chose to turn left and go looking for the estuary of the Umlalazi River.
An hour and a half later we had revelled in the beauty of the vegetated dunes, enjoyed the sand under our feet and admired the seascapes. We’d passed only two people fishing and were starting to wonder if the river mouth was just a myth.
We kept on though, and our fortitude paid off.
After two hours in the sun and wind we decided a return on the coastal forest trail was in order.
At first, the trail seems impossible to locate. We walked quite a way alongside the lagoon before finding it. Once we did, the walk and the views were worth it! The path leads through forest, ferns, mangroves, grass and bush with views of the lagoon and private little river beaches. Imagine walking through these sights to the soundtrack of rustling leaves in the forest canopy and piercing African fish eagle calls.
Umlalazi trail notes
Before you set off into the Umlalazi Forest, you should know:
- The signage on this walk was minimal and difficult to see. We often wondered if we were off the (not very) beaten track.
- Taking lots of water and “padkos” is a good plan. You may not be road-tripping, but it’s about a four-hour walk.
- The beach part of the walk is most pleasant in the morning, before it gets too hot.
- Closed shoes are useful for the forest walk – acacia thorns tend to spear unprotected feet.
Travelling responsibly in Mtunzini/Umlalazi
No eco-friendly accommodation in Mtunzini
Umlalazi Nature Reserve is bordered by the village of Mtunzini (which is itself a conservancy). Ezemvelo Wildlife has campsites and log cabins within the reserve, while Mtunzini has a wider variety of self-catering accommodation. We were disappointed to find that we couldn’t source any eco-friendly accommodation in a town known for its rich conservation history. (If you know of any, please do share).
Sustainable activities at Umlalazi Nature Reserve
We indulged in walking trails, bird-watching and picnicking at the river. There is also the most marvellous shoreline for the traditional, family-favourite beach activities: swimming, volleyball, cricket, touch rugby, bat-and-ball, walking and relaxing. Something we didn’t try and that seems very popular (despite the crocodile signs) is canoeing on the lagoon.
Support the local guides
Guided bird-watching can be organised via the Twinstreams Environmental Education Centre. You’ll find contact details for Sakhamuzi and Junior, two excellent birding guides on the Twinstreams website.
Why you should visit Umlalazi Nature Reserve now
A controversial dune mining project has begun just south of Mtunzini. The jury is still out as to the effect the mining will have on the future of the village, the nature reserve and the area’s sustainable tourism industry.
What responsible travel activities would you recommend at Umlalazi Nature Reserve?
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