Arriving at Thornybush’s Waterside Lodge in a downpour with rivers of mud gushing down the sides of our non-robust 2×4 car on the dirt roads leading to the reserve from Hoedspruit was not exactly the best way to start off a bush break, but things distinctly improved from the moment we were handed hot towels by the welcoming staff at reception.
We holed ourselves up in our room, drinking Amarula and having long hot soaks in the bath tub (hoping to spot some game through the window), and watching movies in the lodge’s lounge, while waiting for the storm to pass, which thankfully it did by the morning. I never get over the excitement of those 5 am wake up calls, when the bush is pitch dark and has that beautiful pre-dawn silence before the birds get going, but it was even more exhilarating to get out on a game drive after the rain had threatened to keep us indoors all weekend.
As the sun rose, wrapped up in double layers of blankets and covered in hot water bottles, we ventured out into a half-aquarian wilderness, where buffalo (looking the least grumpy I’d ever seen them) lounged about in giant puddles, and stinky terrapins happily swam across newly formed roadside mini-lakes. Water-loving animals aside, we spotted all of the Big Five (except for leopard) and spent a thrilling two hours tracking a pride of lions by following their tracks and the sound of crunching bones, to find them devouring a freshly-killed wildebeest.
My favourite sighting was at dusk, just after the sun had set. We’d heard from other game drive vehicles that lions had been spotted in the north of the reserve that morning. We decided to try and find them. Our guide, Shaun, reckoned that they’d likely be on the airstrip at that time of day, when the tarmac still retained the heat of the afternoon’s rays. We raced up there to find nothing. Undeterred, Shaun stopped the car and we waited in silence. Suddenly we heard a low rumbling growl, the kind that makes the hairs on your arms stand up. Out of the bush right next to the car came three beautiful lionesses, followed by a male. They slowly and purposefully walked right up to the car, looked straight through us, and carried on to lie on the airstrip. There’s nothing to beat the unexpected sight of coming face-to-face with these big cats in the dark.
Waterside Lodge used to be on a property (originally owned by Kapama) separate to the rest of the Thornybush private reserve. Last year the fences between Thornybush and Waterside were dropped, so now game drives from Waterside take place on the entire 14 000 hectare Thornybush property. This means that you get a great game viewing experience, as all the guides and trackers from the nine lodges communicate the latest wildlife sighting via radio. It turned out that our guide and tracker team from Waterside were the A Team, as we found the big sightings first (and often had them to ourselves for awhile before other cars arrived).
In between game drives we adopted the habits of cold-blooded lizards, and stretched out under the sun on the deck next to the pool. Without moving from our loungers we could spot buffalo, giraffe and buck coming to drink at the river below. I think the laziness stemmed from the amount of feasting that went on in a short space of time.
We were never far from food (which was all fantastic). Eating started early, with delicious red velvet and chocolate muffins on the morning game drives, followed by a massive buffet spread of cheese, cold meats, fruit and cooked eggs for breakfast, then interesting salads (such as caramelised pear and gorgonzola), vegetables, pasta and roast meat for lunch, scrumptious carrot cake and refreshing homemade spiced iced tea at high tea and three-course dinners (the amazing soups were my favourite dishes) or fireside boma feast to finish the day off. As a vegetarian I’m used to getting bog-standard veggie meals at bush lodges but the chefs at Waterside went out of their way to prepare creative and delicious meat-free meals (for the carnivores out there, the meat dishes were raved about, especially the lamb shank). Note to self: take more stretchy pants next time.
Thornybush Waterside Lodge
Set on the banks of a waterhole that sees regular visits from game, Thornybush’s Waterside Lodge has 20 spacious thatched suites (with giant beds, sunken bath tubs and balconies) spread out on the lawns where beautiful (and unshy) nyala are often found, nibbling the grass next to the path. Breakfasts and lunches are eaten outside on a deck under umbrellas and trees, while dinner is inside in a large, airy dining area. There’s an indoor lounge with DStv, and comfy couches on the deck overlooking the waterhole. Staff at the lodge are particularly attentive, and seem to pre-empt what you’d like before you’ve even thought about it.
Waterside Lodge is the Thornybush Private Game Reserve near Hoedspruit in Limpopo, which borders the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve near Kruger National Park.
Rates start from R3421 a person, including two game drives a day and three meals as well as game drive snacks and high tea.
Contact tel 011-253-6500, email [email protected], www.thornybush.co.za.
Photos by Sarah Duff and Joseph C Lawrence
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