It is, of course, entirely possible that there are better times and places to conduct an informal interview than at the point overlooking Mdumbi beach break at sunset, while dolphins play in the waves far below, but if so, I have yet to experience them. I’m talking to the founder (he refuses to be called the owner, or even co-owner) of Mdumbi Backpackers here at the Port St Johns section of the beautiful Wild Coast. Johann Stadler is different from the previous Wild Coast backpackers’ founders I’ve met over the past few days. For one his name isn’t Dave”¦ and for another he is, as his name might suggest, Afrikaans. At Buccaneers, Bulungula and Coffee Shack I encountered men who speak Xhosa fluently, as does Johann, but none of them were, as far as I could tell, Afrikaans. (Aside: Another marked difference from this establishment, compared to the others where alcohol is served and recreational drugs not necessarily frowned upon too much (note: this is more the impression I got and in no way am I implying that at any of these places hardcore drugs are sold, pushed or even visible) at Mdumbi there is no beer to be had on the premises, and a notice depicting a cannabis leaf and some shrooms declares them illegal and unwelcome on the property. As my first words on arrival were “I need a beer and a beach” I was given clear directions to the nearest local shebeen (which Mdumbi actively supports as a local business) as well as the shortest route to the beach.)
Back to my chat with Johann. I like him right away. He seems to be a genuinely nice guy – humble, generous and easy to talk to about all kinds of things. Johann was born “just over that hill over there” and has lived in this place pretty much his whole life travel aside. His mother tongue is as I said Afrikaans but Xhosa is his second language.
He speaks about this piece of paradise as a place that belongs to no-one, and everyone. When he and his friend Hyman started their small tourism business at the site, owned by a community church, back in 2002, they initially just wanted to turn a profit. But as Johann puts it they became uncomfortable with “˜trying to get rich among poor people.” So in 2004 they started an NPO called TransCape. This initially came out of their realization that the community needed help in coping with TB and HIV related illnesses. From the TransCape website: “Together with the medical staff at Canzibe hospital Johann and Hyman established an NPO to help the communities of the Nyandeni sub-district to tackle their significant health, social, educational and economic needs.
Mdumbi Backpackers works closely with the members of Mankosi community, Nyandeni district, to develop the local area in an eco-friendly way that benefits the community. They have been working on a range of tourism projects with community members since they first started in 2002.”
Johann points out more dolphins and we watch them cavort for a few moments. I realize that I am smiling a great big smile. It’s hard not to given where I am, right now. Johann continues to explain some of the other project that Mdumbi / TransCape have on the go.
Still on the health side of things, there’s an HIV / Aids awareness and support programme including an ARV clinic and home based care. There’s an ambulance service that started during a cholera outbreak when children were dying simply because they could not get to the hospitals offering treatment. The same outbreak led to the creation of a fresh water hole available to the whole community, just behind Mdumbi. There is also a private clinic where basic medication and first aid can be administered.
As far as education is concerned, there’s the pre-school run by two local women, one of whom is qualified and the other is in training. Then there’s an after school centre where older children can do homework and play in a safe environment, and where adult literacy and IT courses are offered. In addition they offer support to three other local preschools by means of training and resources. There are currently 58 people undergoing ABET training here (Adult Basic Education and Training).
For economical growth TransCape started an interest free micro-financing project through which multiple small businesses are formed. TransCape is also involved in tourism development and agricultural programs. Guests at Mdumbi can enjoy activities run by local businessmen and women recommended and supported by the Mdumbi team. These include a surfboard rental company, kayaking, horse riding and other tours, as well as 2 local restaurants (including the shebeen where I was sent on my arrival). All these are 100% community owned. In the future they hope to also help the community start up a dairy and a brewery…
Johann is passionate about the community work with which Mdumbi is involved. Now 50% of the business is owned by the community, with 10% going to TransCape and another 10% to the community association, which includes representatives from the 12 villages that make up the Mankosi community. Any new business in the area must approach the committee and agree to pay a percentage to the community. Smiling as he looks across the bay with wave after perfect wave Joann says, “The Wild Coast is the last place in South Africa, I feel, where this kind of thing can happen.”
We walk slowly back through the milkwood trees to Mdumbi where I have arranged to meet a Canadian volunteer, Sean Spender, who has spent the last 4 months starting up a permaculture garden in the grounds of the backpackers. Sean is a good-looking man and it’s never a bad thing to have to interview a hottie wearing nothing but a large straw sunhat and a pair of shorts. Sadly he sees my camera and puts on a t-shirt before we commence with the interview. But I digress.
Sean came to SA 2 years back to do a permaculture and design course at Berg en Dal in the Karoo. Following this he helped out at SEED in Cape Town for a while but wanted to get a concrete project of his own up and running. He came to Mdumbi for a surfing vacation and saw the potential to start a garden that could grow food for the pre-school and backpackers and approached Johann and co and the rest is history. I’m amazed by how much he has achieved in the four months and also by his passion for plants. He has the pre-school kids come enjoy time in the garden with him each week where they get their hands muddy helping plant and water seedlings. Find out more about Sean’s garden at http://mdumbipermaculture.blogspot.com
Find out more:
Mdumbi Backpackers
TransCape
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