Forest creatures
‘The flight from Serengeti National Park to Lake Manyara airstrip usually takes about twenty minutes but the weather’s good so I think we’ll take the scenic route. Keep an eye out for the volcano.’ Our pilot, Peter, needn’t have worried. Ol Doinyo Lengai lives up to its Maasai name, “˜The Mountain of God’ is hard to miss. As we flew over the crater I peered into the gaping mouth, half suspecting to be engulfed in thick black saliva. Lake Natron stretched out below the volcano, its surface speckled in bright pink – flamingos feeding – I looked forward to seeing their feminine feathers and slender legs with less sky interrupting my view, a luxury I’d be afforded from the banks of Lake Manyara.
&Beyond’s Lake Manyara Tree Lodge is situated toward the southern end of Lake Manyara National Park. Mallie, our ranger, collected us from the airstrip and we headed into thick groundwater forest, populated by giant fig trees and carefully protected mahoganies. Baobabs reached out from the wall of the surrounding escarpment, lending a prehistoric elegance to the landscape. Baboons chortled and barked from the trees. Erect warthog tails peeked regularly out from the bushes, momentarily still before darting to another – presumably more alluring – thicket.
We got out of the car at a hippo pool where at least 20 of the plump beasts lay, catching a few afternoon rays. Tsetse flies made it impossible to linger and we headed toward a spot where Mallie believed one of the famous Lake Manyara tree lions was resting. Sure enough there she was, legs dangling over either side of a high acacia branch, chin resting and eyes closed. She looked about as lethal as a ragdoll. Although nobody knows exactly why they climb, it’s theorised that they do so to escape flies and the heat. Whatever the reason, it was a joy to see one of Africa’s great beasts doing something so delightfully out of character.
Sleeping in the trees
Arriving at the lodge was a unique experience. We were lead down a thin lane – laboriously hacked from the surrounding forest and bush – into a circular clearing. There was a bonfire at its centre, surrounded by dining tables. A double-storey tree house, supported by mahogany pillars but no walls, rose up behind the clearing. A kitchen and more dining tables rested on the first floor with the top level serving as a bar area. Earthy tones and rustic woodwork furnished the interior, blending effortlessly into the surrounding scenery.
From the central clearing a myriad of little paths lead outwards towards the pool and 10 guest tree lodges. When I saw the four-poster bed, large balcony, outdoor shower, lounging area and luxurious Victorian bath, I found it hard to believe that we were standing in a tree house. We spent the rest of the afternoon drinking G&Ts, keeping an eye on the trumpeting elephants 20 m away from our balcony. I slept badly that night. Howling bush babies startled me awake and each time I closed my eyes, I imagined (with trepidation and delight) an elephant trunk reaching in and shoving me out of bed. I was sure to use earplugs the following night.
No need for the famous five
Early the next morning, Mallie treated us to an outdoor fry up, right next to a gurgling hot spring. The view was idyllic – flamingos feeding in the shallow waters of the lake and buffaloes grazing in the marshy foreground. It was a mesmerising contrast. The game drive that followed differed quite considerably to those in the Serengeti. There were no predator sightings or big herds of game. Instead, we were entertained by primate politics, hundreds of exquisite birds, hippos bathing and the occasional elephant balancing under a baobab along the slope of the escarpment. The entanglement of giant trees in the groundwater forest, abundance of khaki acacias shining golden in the sunlight and sparse scattering of palm trees on the lakes shore offered their own brand of beauty. We spent our last day appreciating Manyara’s unique blend of habitats, giving little thought to the Big Five.
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