Before we travelled through Zambia, I had read that Kundalila Falls was a must-see natural site. Being a fervent lover of all things natural, I was rather excited that our first longer-term ‘destination stop’ since the Victoria Falls would be at Kundalila National Heritage Site (related: 10 top World Heritage Sites in Africa). However, on arrival, my views changed radically.
The view from the foot of the falls
The first insult was the cost of camping there, especially considering the dismal to non-existent facilities available. In truth, it’s a blatant rip off. We paid R260 a person to camp in an area that is pretty much just a clearing with a lapa in the middle. The toilets don’t count – one long drop was full (i.e. superfluous) and the other was a very basic hole-in-the-ground-long-drop that wasn’t worth the visit. There was a dark shower room next to the one toilet, but that too was redundant because of the lack of piping and there was actually no running water at the campsite whatsoever. The only running water was the Kaombe River, 100 metres away.
The central lapa
The functioning toilet
The full toilet
Basically, you’re paying the National Heritage Conservation Commission to visit a declared national monument, but one about which you also receive no information. Therefore, you’re left questioning whether a hefty price has been tagged onto the waterfall or if there is something else about this place that you’re simply not made aware of.
To put it into perspective, it was only about K15 (R25) more expensive to visit the Victoria Falls for the day. That at least had decent walks and walkways, picnic spots, toilets and other tourist facilities, not to mention the sheer scope and spectacle of the famous attraction.
I hate to be disappointed and I resent moaning about a price put for what is admittedly a beautiful waterfall. But realistically, there is little incentive to pay so much money (relative to other accommodation venues and places of interest) just to visit a splendid nature feature. The campsite isn’t worth it and when you’ve walked to the falls, there’s nothing else to do but walk along the road back in the direction you came from.
Find alternative accommodation in Zambia here
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