Having camped outside Loxton, first objective on Wednesday was to get to town… and quickly! I got up when the alarm sounded and got everything done as quickly as possible. Sadly the two dogs worked against me, but I eventually got underway for what may well be the worst last stretch to a town. Eish!! I battled mentally, as the 11km just didn’t seem to end… but eventually I saw buildings amongst trees and knew that I was almost there.
One of the first signs I saw was “Die Rooi Granaat” and, as it turns out, it was one of the first places I saw too – so in I went and enjoyed some coolth while having a refreshing drink. The problem with the heat is not the volume of liquid one drinks, its that everything is warm so hardly anything actually refreshes one.
I called Brent and went through to her place to chat about the area and my planned route, as she is the guru in the area – having written the Getaway Travel Guide and all. She quickly sprung into action and was calling all over to find out if farms are occupied, which tourism office could assist, etc, etc. ABSOLUTELY awesome!
From Brent I headed to the co-op where, after explaining what Tootsie was for and why I was doing what I was doing, they offered me my supplies for free. R100 of complimentary groceries – yet another incredible gesture in the Karoo. The people in this area are amazing!
I headed back to Rooi Granaat to enjoy lunch and wait in the coolth, as my friend Lisa had organised a radio interview and that was only happening at 16:15 – so I didn’t want to head out of town and then not have cellphone coverage. Wilna filled me up with ice and water and I then headed into town to walk around and wait for the interview on Chai FM – which went very well. 9min of good stuff!
With that behind me, I wanted to get about 10km from town – which ended up being a little over 20km as I was feeling strong and didn’t mind that the sun had set. I just climbed into the bivi bag and slept in the open… but didn’t sleep all that well as I was right next to the road so every car (not that there were many) woke me, and the wind was howling and it was bitterly cold.
Thursday morning came and I pressed on, contemplating going to Melton Wold – but it was 3 km off the road, which meant an hour detour to get there and back. But, it did offer shade and cold refreshments… as well as a pool.
After 2 2 km I turned in and arrived at an oasis! The place is incredible – it’s like you walk back in time! It’s not a guest farm like some describe – it’s a guest village! School, church, game, camping, farm, guesthouse, tannery, etc, etc, etc… they’ve got it! I relaxed there and chatted with Ronelle the owner, before heading off late afternoon – despite their efforts to get me to camp. Sadly, with the pool out of commission I decided distance was my better option.
As I walked the winds picked up again and the thunderstorm rolled in… and it was MASSIVE! WOW! Sunset, as a result, was incredible to watch but I was approaching 40km for the day and was getting tired… so kept my eyes open, keeping an eye on the approaching storm whilst looking for a place to seek shelter.
Eventually I spotted a farmhouse about 700m from the road and headed in… hoping to seek refuge under the trees. But, nobody was home and all the gates were locked… so I pitched camp behind a hedge and as I was half in my tent the heavens opened. MY WORD! IT WAS INTENSE!
I watched the tent light up again and again, as golf ball size rain drops pounded away. This continued for ages, preventing me from firing up the stove – which needs to be primed which I am not confident enough to do inside the tent. So, all I could do was eat what I had that didn’t need cooking – tin of baked beans, and a MuleBar. I hoped that the storm would pass and I could then boil some rice a little later… but I fell asleep before the storm had passed and woke around 4am, so ended up not having a proper meal.
Having put in a big day and not having had a proper replenishment, I was glad I only had 24 km to Victoria West – as that meant I could be there late morning and replenish properly.
The walk went well but, sadly, I developed another blister on the way in. It doesn’t really effect me walking which is good, but it is uncomfortable. As I entered town I was grabbed by a local reporter and he asked me a few questions and took some pics, but the 30min with him was spent listening more than talking. Town history, stories of every adventurous or charitable person ever to pass through, people who’ve recently passed away… you name, I’ve been told!
I pushed on and visited the Theatre and Museum, before finding a place called Heaven & Earth. A great little gallery and tea garden, I parked my tired and overheating body down and enjoyed something cold… but decided that my lack of meal the previous day and the fact that I’d passed 800km desserved a good reward. So I enjoyed an awesome kudu burger, and got chatting with the owner and her husband (Elsabe and Andre). They’re both cyclists so naturally there was a common interest, and he’s just completed another Half Ironman – and is preparing for the full IronMan in April. Turns out he also sells Hi-Tec at the store he owns in town – and I was wearing the Hi-Tec’s, so I got a pic for Sean.
After a little discussion about my journey, etc, I set off to the shops to get much needed groceries and then headed back to Heaven & Earth to possibly sleep in the tea garden as had been offered. But, they’d chatted while I was at the shops and next thing I was being directed to their house – amazing!!!
I jumped in the pool & noticed Andre’s apparently much talked about training device – a structure bolted into the ground, to which he attaches a harness and swims, allowing him to train for the IronMan in a short pool, as he doesn’t go anywhere. AMAZING!
We chatted as Elsabe & Andre got everything ready for a braai, and we went through photos of my events and undertakings… and Andre and I chatted about the spinnathon / cyclethon events, as he’s done a 24 hr spinnathon and is keen to do another. So we’re brainstorming and will come up with something.
After and awesome meal and a great night, it was bedtime as Andre was out at 4am this morning to go ride before work – ouch!!! WAY too early for me, otherwise I may have joined him.
Other great things about Victoria West: I got proper fruit juice! I got proper yoghurt! And I have 30 km to go today to Rietpoort, as guest lodge at which I will be camping. It’s a natural spring, dinosaur fossils and a whole lot more, so am looking forward to that.
My route to Kimberley, based on advice from locals, is to head due north along the N12 – safety, assurance of water, etc. There are also several historical sites along the way, so I will be keeping up with the sightseeing.
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