Coffee Shack in Coffee Bay is one of those legendary places you hear about time and again from varied sources and I’m here to say it really does live up to its reputation. This backpackers has the word PARTY stamped all over it – rituals like the “˜Buffalo Rules’* bar see to it that the South African and international guests let their hair down and have a jol. And when the hangover subsides there’s plenty to do”¦I of course am (ahem) working – literally I have my laptop up and running next to the bar all evening – so keep my beers to single figures and am more than ready to face the hike to Hole in the Wall the next morning.
Unlike Ricky. You’ll find a Ricky at any backpackers on any given day. He’s the friendly yob, the likable loud mouth, often from London (as was the case with this Ricky) and the one who is last standing despite the incredible amounts of alcohol he manages to consume from morning till late. Ricky is late for the hike and when he arrives is remarkably cheerful about his killer hangover, and full of proud shame as he hears about his own antics at the drumming session the previous night.
Back to the hike”¦The scenery is just phenomenal. I love the ocean and the entire 3 hour trail runs alongside the coast. There are a number of hills to overcome, one specifically steep one that nearly floors quite a few of us (not Ricky, he practically runs up it. Amazing). But at every new rise another astounding seaview meets us. Our guide is the very friendly and cheerful Joseph (Xhosa name Simfumene) Vulindlela. Coffee Bay born and bred, he’s been working at Coffee Shack since he completed his schooling 4 years ago. He’s the ideal guide for this place, where the average guest’s age is between 18 and 35. He’s young, fun, funny and great at making people feel relaxed. He also knows a lot of both facts and stories and regales us with both all along the way, adding an extra dimension to the experience.
Apart from being loads of fun, Coffee Shack is also FTTSA accredited. I spend a few hours with Dave and Belinda Malherbe and their delightful 3 year old, Josh. Dave (if his name sounds familiar that’s because he’s an ex surfing champ) started Coffee Shack with his brother Andre and a friend Dan. Today the local community is a 30% shareholder of the business. With the exception of Belinda (was once a backpacker herself, just passing through when she met Dave and stayed on, permanently) and a couple of surf instructors, a large percentage of their staff is made up of locals who they have trained from the ground up. As many have not completed basic schooling this is sometimes quite a lot of hard work all round. “We aim to be fair in our employment,” Dave says in between fielding calls from Josh who wants a push on the hammock nearby. “You look after people and you get a good return. We try and fill new positions from within the company or community. But our staff do need to be well trained as our standards have to be maintained. And as well as being good at what they do, they also need to be able to work well with the public, depending on their specific work environment. People like Joseph are invaluable in that regard.”
Dave goes into some detail about how Coffee Shack tries to operate on an ecologically sound basis with regards to waste disposal and recycling. There are also projects whereby guests who wish to make a contribution to the community in a more direct way can fund desks and chairs for local rural schools, or even sponsor a child for a year of schooling.
Dave won’t come out and say it, but reading between the lines the Coffee Shack’s biggest contribution to the local community has been attaining and maintaining a high level of success as a business. Together with Ocean View Hotel, this backpackers really has helped put the beautiful Coffee Bay on the tourist map, and more tourists means more opportunities for local businesses which have sprung up as other guest houses and backpackers have also opened in the interim years, helping to create the great vibe that Coffee Bay has today.
The following morning I grab a cup of coffee (note: was delighted to discover that unlike many backpackers who only offer instant coffee, Coffee Shack lives up to its name by serving not only great filter coffee but also a selection of cappuccinos and lattes) and then take a stroll up the hill with Belinda and Josh to the Montessori Pre-school that has been run for the past year, started by a one-time Coffee Shack volunteer and now offering fantastic pre-school education to little ones at what the parents can afford to pay. Here Belinda tells me a little about the schooling situation in the area and what they are trying to do to assist as and where they can. The iKhaya Labantwana pre-school is a gorgeous little place with one incredible view and the kids are practically edible, they’re that cute. I take some snaps of Josh and his little playmate having a smooch – that’s how they roll here in Coffee Bay, even when they’re not long out of nappies!
* You have to hold your drink in your LEFT hand at all times while in the bar. Should you forget, or if you place your drink on the pool table, everyone starts yelling BUFFALOOOOO while you, the culprit, must down said drink in one, before ordering another.
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