Food is one of those little pleasures in life that in my opinion is best enjoyed slowly and preferably in the company of others. The people of Robertson, McGregor and Montagu seem to have this down to a fine art, where wine, food and culture go hand and hand with a full house and loads of time. The Langeberg of the Western Cape is a rich kaleidoscope of friendly faces, flowing wine and flavourful food. If you’re stuck for ideas on what to do and where to stay, here are a few options to nudge you in the right direction.
What to do in the Langeberg
1. Have brunch at Bodega
Bodega de Vinho Restaurant also has a shop and deli
If the smell of freshly baked croissants, Danish pastries and pecan tartlets don’t beckon you through the doors of Bodega de Vinho Restaurant at Rooiberg Winery, then the biggest ‘Red Chair’ in South Africa will. You can’t miss it as you drive along Route 62 towards Robertson. Make sure to climb to the top of the chair and toast your surroundings with a cup of their freshly brewed coffee. On the menu this winter are soup bread bowls: bowls literally made of crusty bread with delicious soups inside. English breakfasts and a variety of homemade breads are also prepared by the friendly staff.
Contact: [email protected], Tel 023-626-1663
2. Eat your way through Robertson
Cape Malay and Boerekos food in Robertson
It’s a personal experience when someone you don’t know cooks their favourite dishes for you, perhaps one passed down by doting grandmothers and moms. Taking a culinary and historical journey through the town of Robertson opened up a host of diverse cultures and of course kitchens. Our tour started off at Nolu’s house, in the township of Robertson. She had cooked to feed the 5000 with her colourful dishes of tuna salad samp (a twist on the traditional Umqqusho), fresh farm chicken, beetroot salad with Bulgarian yoghurt, steamed creamed spinach and tender sheep tripe.
Cape Malay cuisine was next on the cards where we tasted the typical Koningsmaal or King’s meal, prepared by the Malay community when money was tight. Cooked in a cast iron potjie pot, this fragrant stew of potatoes, ox trotters, masala, garlic, ginger, bay leaves and cloves was served with samp. Traditional Boerekos, with a slight modern twist, ended the taste experience with phyllo cups filled with bobotie, pear and malva pudding and caramelised butternut skewers going down a treat. I would suggest that you come hungry to leave room for tastings.
Contact: Avril Netherton at Tantalizing Tours, [email protected], Tel 082-532-8302
3. Raft down the Breede
Rafting down the Breede River with our informative guide
All I could hear as I steered the inflatable raft from the rear was the sound of my buddy’s paddle splooshing in and out of the water. I was content with sitting back and taking in the cobalt blue sky as the sun cast its reflection in the glassy water below. A little bit of steering to the left and a then a little to the right, I thought we made a fearsome team as we tackled our first gentle rapid together along the 6km stretch in Robertson.
The Breede River snakes its way past fruit and wine farms before spilling out into the Indian Ocean in Port Beaufort. Bull sharks have been sighted as far as 5 km upstream of this estuary mouth, but the closest I came to seeing a fish was when a bass decided to belly-flop into the water a couple of meters from our raft. The Breede River is a popular spot for fishing, where anglers can hope to hook bluegill and carp. We creamed the first rapid, easily dodging the rocks as we narrowly escaped the jaws of a CROC on the way down. Since there are no reptilian crocodiles to worry about on the Breede, this would have been our neighbours inflatable raft that happened to be positioned directly at our exit point. After a bit of cajoling we allowed the Breede to carry us in her wide arms onto the next bit of excitement.
Contact: I organised the rafting through Robertson Backpackers. Contact them on [email protected], or 023-626-1280
4. Listen to opera at Wahnfried
Watch piano concerts and opera at Wahnfried
The arts are alive and kicking in the small town of McGregor thanks to Wahnfried movie house. This reconverted villa is a sanctuary where people can come and get their cultural dose of screened movies, live concertos and opera. The voluminous interior adds to the feeling of being in a theatre and makes for a special evening out. Freddie and Michael have put their vision of providing a musical and artistic experience into action and open their quiet corner of the Langeberg to the public. One can expect classics like Leonard Cohen I’m your Man and Good Will Hunting to screen on movie nights using high definition picture and surround sound. Look out for the upcoming soiree featuring a Baroque Trio on the 31st May at 07h30pm. Cost R80 per person.
Contact: [email protected], 072-601-1616
5. Grapple with grappa
The Lemon Eau de Vie is a signature at Tanagra
I confess I’m a little ignorant when it comes to grappa. With an alcohol content of between 35%-60%, it’s enough to put a spring in your step for sure. On first encounter I was almost intoxicated on fumes alone as I tried to get my head around how Italians can add this fiery liquor to their morning espresso: also known as a caffè coretto or ‘corrected coffee’. If not a part of breakfast, it’s a common after-dinner drink that is usually served chilled and taken in small sips.
Robert Rosenbach of Tanagra Wine and Guest Farm in McGregor, kickstarts his morning distilling this fragrant liquor using the skins, pulps, seeds and stems leftover from pressing grapes for wine. To a lesser extent, other fruit can also be used. One of Robert’s signature products is his Lemon Eau de Vie, made from his own farm lemons. Only locally produced apricots, peaches, quinces and grapes are used in his products. Grappa is one of those beverages that I believe is an acquired taste, and like Old Brown Sherry is best drunk on a cold winter’s night.
Contact: Book accommodation at Tanagra Wine and Guest Farm, 023-625-1780
6. Go to the Wacky Wine Festival
There's loads of outdoor activities at the Wacky Wine Weekend
Over four days and celebrating a decade, the Wacky Wine Weekend Festival is a must for your social calendar this year. Happening from the 6-9 June 2013, it promises to be more festive and wackier than ever, bringing Robertson to life with local performing arts, fun wine competitions, river cruises, a simulated rodeo bull, ‘meet-the-winemaker’ tastings, food-pairings and tractor trips, to name but a few.
The theme for this ten-year milestone is ‘celebration’, so make sure that you don your best (or wackiest) outfit and come prepared for a terrific festival that will take place over various properties across the valley. There will also be a winter drive to support local charities and festival-goers are encouraged to bring along blankets and clothing for the less fortunate. A win for all. As the valley likes to keep giving back, keep an eye open for other upcoming not-to-be-missed festivals: Robertson Slow Festival (9-11 August), Wine on the River (18-20 October), and Robertson Wine Valley’s Hands On Harvest (21-24 February 2014) and make sure to book your accommodation in advance.
Contact: [email protected], Tel 023-626-3167
Where to eat
7. De Kaap Restaurant
You’ll find country cooking at its finest at this cozy, restored farmhouse of a restaurant just outside McGregor. The chalkboard menu features mouthwatering dishes for every taste: beef carpaccio with parmesan shavings, slow-cooked Moroccan lamb shanks, aged rib-eye steak on risotto and pear and almond frangipane. I got stuck into a deep fried camembert with cranberry dipping sauce, then onto a fragrant prawn curry with fresh coriander and crispy poppadum and ending off with a hazelnut pavlova topped with figs, gooseberries and fresh cream. My verdict: yummy. The wine list is generous with mostly local performers from the valley, with staff providing recommendations on wine pairings.
Contact: [email protected], 072-693-4052
8. Grand Café Restaurant
It's all about the food at Grand Cafe
When you walk into Grand Café in Robertson you’ll be welcomed by a retro chic 1940’s vibe where much love and attention is poured into preparing dishes that are wholesome and full of flavor. I give a thumbs up to the roast chicken phyllo pie with crunchy salad and baked lemon cheesecake. Local and seasonal ingredients are sourced for all dishes and also bottled into jams, relishes and preserves so you take a little something of Robertson back home with you. It’s open on Sundays for those heading our for the weekend.
Contact: Grand Cafe, [email protected] , Tel 023 626 5783
Where to stay
9. Gubas de Hoek
Comfortable and affordable accommodation at Gubas de Hoek
This 4-star guesthouse in Robertson prides itself on being eco-friendly. The use of solar panels, open-thatch roofs and sash windows allow room temperatures to be controlled naturally. There are five garden rooms to choose from, each with extra-length beds, a wall safe, tea and coffee tray and a hairdryer. The main house has another three rooms each with their own sparkle of vibrant interiors. The kitchen is the domain of Gunther, owner and masterchef at Gubas de Hoek, as he whips up 3-course dinners and tasty breakfasts, which can be enjoyed out on the terrace or in the cozy dining room. Gunther and Balbina will be at your service ready to offer a hand with directions or a special request.
Prices: From R430 a person sharing
Contact: Book accommodation at GuBas de Hoek, 023-626-6218
10. African Game Lodge
As you peer out of your cottage you’ll be met with rolling hills of fynbos, home to eland, springbok, wildebeest and kudu. You’re going to have to take a bit of a drive on country dirt roads to get there, but the serenity of the surrounds is well worth the trip. Pretty traditional Karoo thatched cottages dot the Montagu landscape and are a welcoming place to unwind. Log fires (with a bag of wood provided on arrival), private braais, towels, bathrobes, toiletries, tea and coffee and a kitchenette come part and parcel of your stay. For those looking to be away from the main lodge, an elevated private bush camp at the dam is on offer. With no dangerous game on the reserve, walks are encouraged. The lodge also runs a cheetah awareness program, providing a place for rescued and injured cheetah. Arrange to watch them being fed at feeding time for great photo opportunities.
Prices: Camping from R110 a person a night and self-catering chalets (sleeps 2 and 4) from R480 a person sharing a night
Contact: Book online at African Game Lodge
11. Robertson Backpackers
There are great spaces at Robertson Backpackers
Affordable, clean and homely. Robertson Backpackers is a great place to stop for a few days so that you can explore the area. Meet new faces and share a beer in the Moroccan lounge/bar, prepare a meal in the country-style kitchen or cook some lamb chops on the braai outside. Guests also have full access to the large screen tv with DStv, DVD library and reading room with a selection of good reads. Opt for one of the garden or quad rooms (sleep 4), the double rooms or stay in in the dormitory (sleeps 6). Your hosts can also arrange a host of activities to keep you busy including rafting Route 62, horse riding, riverboat cruises and game drives.
Prices: From R110 a person sharing a night
Contact: Book online at Robertson Backpackers here
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