Makweti Safari Lodge lies in the malaria-free Welgevonden Private Reserve, Limpopo Province. Tucked in a picturesque corner of the Waterberg, the terrain ranges from rolling hills to red sandstone cliffs, perennial rivers, open plains and savannah. The flora is predominantly mountain sourveld with marvellously diverse fauna, including the Big Five and more than 300 species of birds.
The lodge is elegantly done, an intimate experience with only five chalets, hence no more than 10 guests at a time. There’s a busy waterhole beside the reception that appears to be a favourite with zebras, who queue up to drink, as well as a couple of amiable warthogs. The lodge is set around a gorge of red sandstone that looks as though it’s been landscaped, so perfect are the proportions. A pool and decks sit discreetly in the side of the kloof, which is loud with the splash of falling water in the summer months. This is the playground of dassies, cheeky vervets and the occasional leopard. Two chalets are reached by an attractive hang bridge across the gorge, giving the whole thing a delightfully Robinson Crusoe feel.
The interiors are in dark woods with plenty of natural fabrics, African prints and hides. Ornaments and artifacts from across the continent make up the decorative elements. It’s understated and stylish, with a pleasing attention to detail. Each chalet is a spacious, thatched affair with diaphanous mosquito net, ball-and-claw bath as well as indoor and outdoor shower. You return to your chalet after the evening game drive to find a glass of complementary Port wine, flames licking in the fireplace and the Victorian bathtub beckoning.
As is customary at most safari lodges, vehicles head out for morning and evening drives. On chilly mornings, each guest receives a hot-water bottle to warm you up on the open 4×4: an unusual, but welcome touch. The game drives are generally top-notch with no more than four vehicles allowed on a sighting at a time.
Our field guide was called Test Malunga, a first-rate bush fundi from Zimbabwe. That country continues to produce some of the best guides in Africa. (Amusingly, when he tried to create a profile on Facebook, his first name was rejected, so he has to use his nickname, Toets. I wonder what would’ve happened if his nickname was Error or Sample … or Reboot.)
Test was vastly knowledgeable about everything from the difference between male and female leopard spoor to the traditional method of catching (and roasting) queleas using latex from the wild rubber tree (don’t ask!).
On our first drive, the cheetahs and lions appeared quickly, so too the lesser fry and some good birds, each one accompanied by an anecdote from Test. And things just got better from there, including numerous rhino sightings. Indeed, Welgevonden has one of the largest private populations of white rhino in Africa. Long may the poachers be kept at bay.
Watching the waterhole from your deck
Back in camp, guests while away the heat of the day lounging beside one of the pools or watching the heavily trafficked waterhole. Evenings give the chefs a chance to show their stuff. Makweti offers fine dining with game meat featuring prominently and a good selection of South African estate wines. Candlelit dinners are served in the formal dining room or in a boma with nightjars serenading and the stars fizzing brightly overhead. A hyena whoops, followed by the distant thunder of a lion’s roar … there’s nowhere you’d rather be.
Fast facts
Makweti has a special, ‘standby’ rate for the South African market. It’s valid for travel within 10 days of the booking date. The summer rate is R2995 a person a night sharing (R2350 in winter). This includes all meals and game activities, but not beverages and a conservation levy of R80 a
person a day. Tel 011-837-6776, fax 011-837-4771, email [email protected], web www.makweti.com.
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