The prospect of going away for a weekend is always exciting, especially if you know you’re going to a world-renowned, peaceful haven in the middle of the Cederberg mountains where you will be fed decadently and have time to relax to your heart’s content.
I got all that I hoped for plus more. There was the relaxation and pampering that you might expect of a five-star establishment, but Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat managed to surpass my expectations because, while it was luxurious, the establishment is also humble and its surroundings as well the heritage of the area are given the pride of place by all who work there.
Leaving Cape Town on the N7 Namibia-Cape Route, the landscape changes to large open fields, filled with sheep, and then is different again once you start climbing the hills, over the Pakhuis Pass. This time the purple and red rocks and boulders balance impossibly on each other and the seemingly untouched fynbos put you very firmly in rooibos country.
The lodge itself is made up of 17 suites, in separate buildings, all complete with the highest-thread count linen I’ve ever felt, Victorian-style ball-and-claw baths and opulent lounges. While there is no kitchen in the suites, you certainly won’t go hungry. While lunch is pretty relaxed with choices between sandwiches and salads, dinner is a grand affair. There are two dining areas and the head chef Floris Smith conjures up delectable three-course meals every night, many of which are inspired by the fynbos of the area. Each meal begins with a surprise amuse-bouche and the menu makes it very difficult to choose your starters, mains and dessert. Springbok carpaccio, tender white fish and apple crumble … or perhaps mushroom gnocchi, crispy pork belly and homemade ice cream. Any choice you make is sure to be the right one.
But besides the luxury, what makes Bushmans Kloof so memorable is the stark, dramatic landscape and Bushman heritage sites for which the reserve is famous. There are 130 sites on the reserve, but guests are taken on tours to ten of the sites and the more sensitive ones remain well-preserved. On our first morning in the Cederberg, we were greeted by brisk cold air and a mist which sank over the mountains, making our short drive and walk to Fallen Rock refreshing and somewhat eerie. The sites are fascinating. Photographs don’t really do justice to them. Our guide’s presentation on the history of the art brought the pictures to life.
Our guide, Gerhard, was incredibly knowledgeable. He was able to tell us all about the local fauna and flora on our way to the rock art site and any questions we had were immediately answered confidently. He also took care of us – making hot coffee to ward off the cold of the morning, packing extra blankets when he knew I didn’t have a jacket – and really made our stay.
There are hiking trails on the reserve, marked with stone cairns, that lead you up over the rocks to incredible viewpoints of the rugged landscape. Walking in the late afternoon, with all the rocks bathed in orange light, bringing out the purple in the boulders, is spectacular.
On our second night, after yet another amazing meal, Gerhard took up stargazing in the land rover. We drove quite far from the lodge, stood in the barren landscape and stared at the heavens – while sipping Amarula hot chocolate! He pointed out stars with a laser pointer and I was reminded of just how small we are.
On our way back to the lodge we were treated to something very special. Gerhard had a spotlight, trying to catch sight of some interesting animals for us. Suddenly, he stopped the car and tracked a strange creature with the light. It was a female aardvark, scurrying away from our vehicle to find safety in a burrow. It was quite something to see the long-nosed rarity in real life. Gerhard, after a year and a half on the reserve has seen an aardvark only once before. The next day all the guides excitedly tried to find out from him exactly where the aardvark was spotted so that they too could get a sighting.
There is so much on offer at the lodge besides the activities I was lucky enough to take part in. There are mountain biking trails, a health and beauty spa, canoeing on the dam as well as special packages including food and wine pairing, yoga and family fun weekends to be enjoyed. In spring, the slopes of the mountain come alive in blankets of wild flowers and guests can enjoy picnics out in the veld.
Bushmans Kloof is an amazing place to get away from the city, whether you are looking to rejuvenate your body or your spirit – both are sure to be refreshed by the time you return home.
For more information on Bushmans Kloof, visit www.bushmanskloof.co.za, or go ahead and book your stay at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat with Getaway Accommodation.
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