Our arrival in Maputo marked our introduction to Mozambique – its vibrancy and its pitfalls. Mozambique’s capital is as enticing as it is off-putting – piri-piri chicken, cashew nuts and sunbathed coastline fighting for a place amongst money-hungry cops, pesky salesmen and sewage spills.
Africa real?
‘So much for making the transition from Africa lite to Africa real. These roads are fantastic!’ James was right. The road leading into Maputo from the Swaziland border is in excellent condition. So too are the border posts – spacious, well organised offices on both sides with helpful officials that processed our documentation without hassle. From Durban we made our way through Swazi Kingdom to Maputo province, as it is the quickest route. Bar the odd collection of easy-going potholes, the seven-hour drive was both scenic and safe.
The 90-km drive from the border post to Maputo offered panoramic views of mustard-green hills covered in quintessential African bush. The Indian Ocean sparkled in the distance, merging effortlessly with pancake-flat coastal planes. Although beautiful, these low-lying plains pose a major flood risk to the southern and central provinces of Mozambique, evidenced by the catastrophic floods in 2000 that displaced communities and claimed hundreds of lives. As I tried (and failed) to imagine the reality of having my home and livelihood unexpectedly destroyed, I saw that ‘Africa real’ embodies more than just potholes and shady officials.
Meeting Maputo
As we approached Maputo, roadside stalls selling colourful arrays of grapes, mangos, bananas and rosy-cheeked pears competed for my eyes’ attention. They offered a welcomed contrast to the dried out maize fields that seemed to be buckling under the sun’s heat. There was activity everywhere. Goats grazing on the side of the road, men drinking, women carrying, kids on bicycles – clutching pieces of sugar cane. ‘Africa’s roadside Happy Meal,’ James noted with glee, happy as I was amidst the bustling scene.
The buzz on the street amplified as we walked around Maputo’s city centre (after unpacking the vehicle at Hoyo Hoyo Hotel). Young kids charged around, blissfully unaware of the late night hour. Salesmen stood at every corner, relentlessly punting their goods to anyone who walked by. The range of merchandise included watches, paintings, cashew nuts, cameras, phones, multi-plugs and toothbrushes. From our dinner table on the sidewalk, a safe metre from the insistent salesmen, I could take my time to appreciate the city’s detail. Maputo is – for the most part – in a state of disrepair. Dilapidated (and sometimes abandoned) buildings line the streets and the roads and pavements are littered with potholes. Oddly enough there are plenty of fancy cars – flash Audis and oversize SUVs that look misplaced against the backdrop of the crumbling infrastructure.
Not my cup of tea
Although I enjoyed Maputo’s vibrancy, piri piri chicken and melting pot of ethnicities, I must admit I’m in no hurry to go back. With the high prevalence of theft, watching your back is a constant distraction. Police checkpoints are common across southern Africa but in Maputo they made me particularly uncomfortable. “Fines” are dolled out for misdemeanors as trivial as driving barefoot and keeping constant tabs on such things is not ideal. Call me a pansy but after three days in the heart of the city I was gatvol and hankering to get back onto the open road.
Contact
Hoyo Hoyo Hotel
Tel +258 21 302 723
www.hoyohoyo.odline.com
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