When I first visited Napier I stayed with friends in their country cottage, complete with purple shutters and matching lavender bushes. We went for long walks along the dirt roads, stopping to chat to neighbours along the way. We had cappuccinos with breakfast on the main road, ate homemade pies from the farm stall and sampled the locally brewed beer at the pub. I was smitten. And it’s clear I’m not the only one – many of the residents are escapees from the city who visited the town and just never left.
Founded in 1838, and named after then Governor of the Cape, Sir George Napier, the village is set among canola and wheat fields beneath the Soetmuisberg. If you visit in the months leading up to spring, the hills shimmer with golden flowers. Strawberries thrive in the area – as does wine.
Like me, you will probably leave Napier laden with pies, wine, art, a tummy full of good food and Napier beer and many happy memories. You will definitely vow to return. Or you could never leave at all.
Where to eat and drink in Napier
Renée Daneel and her winemaker husband, Jean, have turned an old house on Napier’s main road into an elegant eatery, Renéesance, while the adjoining Larder deli and Jean Daneel wine tasting room, are set in a converted barn. The Larder specialises in bread-making and offers courses in the art and sells a delightful selection of cheese, cured meats and preserves. Mediterranean cuisine is on the seasonal menu at Renéessance, which changes weekly. It’s recommended that you book and, when you do, find out about the next wine and food pairing session. Tel 028-423-3724, www.jdwines.co.za.
At Pascals Country Kitchen you’ll find almost every table filled with patrons nursing a cup of frothy cappuccino – probably the best in town – with a slice of cheesecake. This French-style bistro is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Pop in for Sunday lunch before heading home – the roasts with all the trimmings are delicious. Tel 028-423-3146, www.pascals.co.za.
The Suntouched Inn is a favourite for pizza. While taking on the locals at a game of pool, you can drink Napier Beer on tap and occasionally catch a live band. The restaurant serves meals throughout the day and, if you have a little too much to drink, or simply don’t want to leave, there is Afro-chic accommodation too. Tel 028-423-3131, www.suntouchedinn.co.za.
Have a ‘black-pan’ breakfast on the vine-covered stoep or take home a fresh bread and a few goose eggs from Napier Farmstall. Buy some flaky, filled- to- the-brim chicken pies for dinner. Tel 028-423-3440.
What to do in Napier
1. Join a tour of the southern most brewery in Africa, Napier Brewery. The microbrewery was started as a hobby by three friends and in nearly five years has grown into a well-respected craft beer brand. Tours and tastings by appointment. Tel 083-703-8004.
2. Fans of goat’s cheese should take a short drive from Napier to Dragonfly Farm. A variety of cheeses infused with lavender, wasabi and rooibos are produced and visitors can tour the farm, watch the cheese-making process, learn about permaculture gardening (for the herbs), and get an occasional nudge from behind by a goat. Tel 028-423-3112, email [email protected], www.goats-cheese.co.za.
3. Embrace your inner child and pop into the Toy Museum. Tel 028-423-3894.
4. Visit the Dutch Reformed Church (built in 1838) on the main road with its teak interior and beautiful pipe organ. Tel 028-423-3325.
5. Check your time against the giant sundial at the municipal offices. It was built by Danie du Toit in 1965 and is probably the biggest in the country. Tel 028-423-3325.
Where to shop in Napier
Grab a bottle or two of local wine from Vindigo Wine & Décor Company. It stocks a wide range of boutique wines, craft beers, Cuban cigars and a fascinating collection of nautical memorabilia, old books, art and gifts. Tel 028-423-3069.
Select a few indigenous plants and take home country fare from Red Windmill Nursery and Farmstall. You can also stage your own fashion parade with hats from Vintage clothing shop and, before you leave, shove a few gobstoppers into your pockets from Cool Beans, a pastel-pink candy shop from yesteryear. Parents will love the fact that there’s a variety of activities to keep kids entertained. Tel 028-423-3576.
Napier Sweet Potato Festival
Sweet potatoes have been grown in Napier since the 1800s. The flat stones found in the soil here are apparently responsible for the interesting shapes of the Napier patat and their sweet and creamy taste. In June every year, the town buzzes with festival activity. There are art exhibitions, brewery tours, baking demonstrations, vintage car parades, a marathon and a mountain-bike race. Scarecrows line the street and a local young lass is crowned Miss Napier. As you’d expect, there’s also an abundant supply of potatoes.
Where to stay in Napier
At Journey’s Rest Farm, 20 km out of Napier, lovingly restored self-catering cottages (sleep two each), pool, braai area and friendly donkeys make for a delightful farmstay. From R450 a cottage a night. Tel 071-688-0024, email [email protected], www.journeysrest.com.
Taim-Go-Loer, 10 km outside of Napier, is a pet-friendly cottage. Make every meal a braai, go searching for blue cranes or just read a book on the massive stoep. From R600 a night for up to four people. Tel 083-457-5027, email [email protected], www.overbergfarm.co.za.
Set in a beautifully restored farmhouse, four-star Aletta’s Kuierhuis’s old-fashioned charm is interspersed with chic contemporary touches. Beautiful original works of art adorn the walls. The guesthouse is within walking distance of the town’s restaurants and shops. From R350 a person a night sharing, including breakfast. Tel 028-423-3857, www.alettas.co.za.
Getting to Napier from Cape Town
Hit the N2 from Cape Town, turn off at Caledon and follow the R316 into Napier.
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