I’m sitting in the middle of the lowveld on the western border of the Limpopo Province, about 10km from the Botswana border, and am in the fortunate position of undertaking my fourth crossing of our beautiful country this year”¦ my third by human power.
What’s the difference you ask? Easy”¦ life is much slower and far simpler. You have time to meet people, interact with communities and appreciate ones surroundings. Instead of rushing by and missing half of what you’ve travelled through, you get to see nature its purest form”¦ and can watch as the landscape changes, while enjoying the sunshine and fresh air.
I escaped the corporate world at the age of 25 marking the start of my “˜full time’ adventurous life, with the goal of doing something great and being able to give back to society at the same time. This was a big commitment from my side, as I was unfit and not in the best physical condition”¦ but determined to make it work.
Having for many years lived the philosophy “Go big or go home”, I kick-started my human-powered travels by cycling from Cape Town to Pretoria. Following the scenic Route 62 to start I visited the Eastern Cape and climbed the escarpment into the Free State before cruising through Gauteng. The 41 days taught me that I could handle a different kind of adversity. It was no longer just about fixing a crisis in the office or keeping the boss happy by following a defined set of rules, it was enduring long periods of difficulty way beyond the normal comfort zone while stretching my mental capacity and finding solutions to a new type of challenge.
During this journey, I heard about a British adventurer who had been travelling for over a lit more than 12 years and was finally on his way home. He’d set out in 1994 to circumnavigate the world, using only his own power to propel him forward. Jason Lewis had pushed himself way beyond the mental and physical norm, and was having a positive impact on so many lives. By showcasing human potential, Jason inspired all those he came into contact with and ran a successful educational project alongside his expedition”¦ which entered the record books as the first human-powered circumnavigation of the world. [ref: www.expedition360.com]
While Jason setoff on a course few have attempted and by means never attempted, thousands each year set off on set hiking and cycling trails around the world. Often travelling long distances to reach their selected trails, often including multiple flights, large amounts of money spent and time wasted travelling to / from their destination. While I have popular trails like the Fish River Canyon, Camino de Santiago, Inca Trail, Appalachian Trail and Annapurna Circuit on my wishlist, I am first seeing our beautiful country.
Sure, it’s difficult to get a booking for many of the local trails or one has to book a full group or put up with whoever else may be on the trail at the time. But how about setting out on your own adventure? While always follow the herd?
Just because there isn’t a central booking service or travel agent that knows every last detail doesn’t mean you can’t walk across the Karoo. Imagine rollerblading through the Garden Route, or skateboarding down the Whale Coast! While these may not quite be an island holiday, you are sure to have a new lust for life and outlook on society upon your return.
Since my 2007 cycle tour, I have covered over 20,000km on a bicycle”¦ none of specifically training and never racing. From commuting to touring, this became my way of life. Be it a weekend in the Cape Winelands or a long weekend to Cape Agulhas, every opportunity I got I hit the road and went with the flow. No set route or destination, just a few days to escape and see life a little differently.
I kick-started 2010 by walking across South Africa. My start and end points were pre-determined, as well as a few points along the way that I really wanted to see. Between those? Well, what better way to experience a region than by chatting to the locals and finding out what they suggest.
I’m not for one minute suggesting that everyone packs up and starts walking across countries, but I am offering you an alternate for seeing cities and countries. This is what I’ve come up with thus far… for a Cape Town tour.
Stay in Green Point / Mouille Point area to start. This gets you close to the Cape Town Stadium and V&A Waterfront, a nice evening outing. Then take a stroll along Somerset Road and through the Cape Quarter, before heading into the CBD proper. One has to take a walk up Long Street, but be sure to keep your eyes open and look up all the side roads”¦ and take a quick detour to Greenmarket Square. While you’re there, enjoy a cup of coffee at Vida for heading further up Long Street. At the baths, turn left and opposite the Mount Nelson Hotel head down through the Company Gardens. From here, visit the Museum and Art Gallery, feed peanuts to the squirrels and hop on a bicycle taxi and ask them to take you down Adderley Street. Get them to drop you at the tourism office to pick up some more info and maps, before settling in for the night…
The next morning, get an early start and catch a Rikki’s up to the lower cable station and head up Table Mountain with the cable car. Once back down, get another bicycle taxi to take you to the end of Tafelberg Road and then walk around the lower slopes of Devils Peak to the Blockhouse, before descending to Rhodes Memorial. From there, head into Newlands and visit the Brewery to finish your day.
Breakfast is best enjoyed in Kirstenbosch Gardens, which is a short taxi ride away, before following the contour path on foot to Constantia Nek where you can enjoy a good meal before descending into the Constantia Valley, where you can catch Groot Constantia late afternoon and enjoy dinner under the oaks.
From Constantia, you can head through Tokai and head into Muizenburg, which is a short train or bus ride away. Here, go for a surf lesson or visit the quaint stores that line many of the side streets, and be sure to grab some fuel for the walk along the coast to Kalk Bay, where you are bound to be caught up for hours”¦ whether it be in harbour watching the fishermen at work or the countless stores selling everything from modern art to sunken treasures. Watching the waves crash against the harbour wall is a great way to end your day.
After breakfast at Klipkantien, head around the corner to Clovelly and walk along Fish Hoek beach, before catching a train to Simonstown. Here, take a slow walk down the main road and pull in at Jubilee Square for a bite to eat and then head to the Toy Museum. If you’ve got time and have your sea legs with you, go for a paddle to Boulders Beach to see the penguins from a different perspective. Overnight in Simonstown and enjoy dinner while watching the lights of the city across the bay in the distance.
Another early start [sorry], and head to the ByBike folk to rent a bicycle for the day and take a gentle cruise passed Boulders and into the Cape Point Nature Reserve, visiting the south-westernmost point of Africa. Be sure to visit the craft stalls outside the main gate, although buying a stone carving may not be the best idea as you still need to cycle back to Simonstown.
Another night in Simonstown, then take a slow walk over the mountain for some breathtaking views and then onward to Cape Point Vineyards for lunch. For the afternoon, stroll in the quaint village of Kommetjie”¦ your home for the night.
After visiting the Noordhoek Farmers Village in the morning, take the alternate means over Chapmans Peak Drive”¦ on foot. The views are worth it, and you can stop whenever you wish to take in the experience without having to worry about the car behind you not looking where they’re going.
Descend into Hout Bay and, after a well earned drink overlooking the bay, head to Dunes for lunch… or push a little further and head into the harbour from some fresh fish under an umbrella on the deck. Enjoy the day on the beach before cruising into town for late afternoon and the evening, as the climb over Suikerbossie is next.
Once on top, swing into the restaurant and enjoy brunch on the deck… then enjoy a slow stroll along the Atlantic Coast and into Camps Bay. Sundowners overlooking the beach are well desserved 🙂
Your last day of walking takes you along the coast and back into Green Point / Mouille Point… although cabs are readily available on this stretch, so no need to push it if you’re feeling a little leg weary.
So what do you think? Time to change the approach to holidays? Or you still gonna stick in the car and race from place to place?
Originally posted at: http://www.facebook.com/notes/ray-d-chaplin-solo-adventurer/the-other-way-to-see-the-world/436393832486
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