Given the less-then-sterling reputation of trains in Cape Town (overcrowded, chaotic, hardly ever on schedule and not always safe), it’s no wonder I haven’t braved the train since university. But on Human Rights Day, I decided to explore some of our coastline via rail. I must admit – at first my interest lay solely with the buffet car, which usually offers meals and beverages whilst you journey along swiftly. But, even when I realized the buffet car hadn’t been around for the last five years I jumped on board anyway, still keen to experience a different mode of transport.
The peninsula of Cape Town happens to be spectacular from any angle you may look at it. Hopping in your car and road tripping is one thing, taking a tour bus to all the most popular places is another. Actually using the public transport system to see the bits of coast you can’t reach with your car is something completely different and makes for a beautiful ride.
Because it was a public holiday the rest of the city was not falling over each other to get to work. The train was fairly empty, filled only with families headed for the beach. My boyfriend and I bought our tickets at False Bay station and headed for the final stop in the naval town of Simonstown. This time was different. I felt safe, relaxed and eager to see the sights only train goers get to see.
With a northwest wind blowing, surfers had already paddled out in their dozens at Muizenberg beach. The water was incredibly clear and I imagined that this must mean perfect visibility for the shark spotters up along Boyes Drive. Before we knew it, we were rapidly passing the cosy St. James beach with its brightly coloured changing rooms and children running into the water. A couple huddled together away from the beach crowds and sought shade beneath a tree. It seemed like a day for paddlers and kayakers and anyone possessing water sport equipment – the ocean was glassy and fairly flat.
A man with a hat launched his orange kayak out beside the rocks as the mist hovered over the greater part of False Bay. The ocean seemed to be dotted with a brush of turquoise and navy blue strokes with each different turn the train took. The Brass Bell restaurant buzzed as usual, whilst moored fishing boats bobbed about at Kalk Bay harbour and groups of girls huddled together on the sand. The red-and-white lighthouse stood tall and proud and never wavered at the sight of waves crashing against its sides. The regular visitors to the harbour, two massive seals, maneuvered up the stairs to get unwanted bits of fish.
On the opposite side of the road, the Cuban flag of Cape to Cuba‘s restaurant flapped merrily and pedestrians in search of lunch waited for tables at Olympia Café. Tourists browsed the antique stores and boutiques filled with desirable clothing. The ice cream store seemed to be filling up with customers hoping these hot summers days would never end.
Older couples tanned along the boardwalk of Fish Hoek beach, and just before the train turned the corner some fishermen cast their lines outward in hopes of a good day. Lifeguarding squads began their training near Clovelly Corner and launched their paddle skis out in a rapid motion. When I leaned a little way out of the train the wind caught my hair and my face felt cool. I had to stand on the seat just to see out the window.
An elderly man took his daily stroll along the boardwalk, not once lifting his head at the sound of the passing train. Children and their parents wading in the rock pools waved eagerly at us and we waved back. Further on, two youngsters enjoyed surfing a wave all to themselves. The mist seemed to form a canopy over the ocean, and I thought about how quickly this ride was flying by.
The journey came to an end at the sign of a shipwreck and all the gigantic grey navy ships docked in the harbour. We disembarked, only to return for the 1:40pm train back home. Old Simonstown, with its buildings dating from the 1800’s, cute sidewalk cafés and Salty Sea Dog’s fish and chips, awaited. Crowds were seated on the water’s edge for lunch and coffee. Families leaned over the jetty, pointing at the yachts and little boats. Foreigners posed for photos and booked boat tours around the harbour.
We had barely received our order of hake and chips when we realized we had less than 15 minutes to walk back to the station before the train left us behind. We hastily made our way past the Maritime Museum, manicured gardens behind a tall white wall, and shirtless guys burping from their balconies. As soon as we had jumped on the train and found a carriage with open windows the train slowly pulled away. With plastic forks, sprinkles of salt and tomato sauce, we devoured our food.
I have driven this route countless times before, but the train provided a different experience. For only R15 (return ticket), we had explored one side of the peninsula in half an afternoon. And what a breathtaking coastline it is.
For more information on trains in Cape Town visit www.capemetrorail.co.za.
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