The amazing elephant herds of the Chobe River

One of the amazing things about flying into Kasane in northern Botswana is the view of the Chobe River while coming in to land. It is one of the best places to see the greatest elephant herds in Africa.

It’s a warm noon day in October as the plane swoops in low over the Chobe National Park. The landscape is dominated by rusty browns. Hardly a single green tree is noticeable from the air. As the plane approaches Kasane Airport, I see the the Chobe River appear in the distance like a long, green sliver of life. Directly below, I can make out hundreds of well-trodden paths leading to the river like blood vessels.

Then I see them: a herd of about 70 elephants marching down a path with remarkable intent. They are on their way to the river, joining what seems to be thousands of others on the floodplains around the river’s edge. This is Chobe in the dry season.

I’m spending the weekend right on the western edge of the Chobe National Park. The view of the river from Ngoma Safari Lodge is almost as spectacular as the view from the plane, with many other species – wildebeest, zebra, waterbuck and impala – enjoying the fresh greenery of the floodplains in front of the lodge. it’s like the Serengeti, right here in Botswana.

A journey down to the bank for a Chobe River boat cruise reveals the true scale of wildlife in the area at this time of year. Before reaching the boat, I count at least 500 elephants. On the river itself, we are able to immerse ourselves in the spectacle. I enjoy sighting after sighting of elephants drinking, bathing and playing by the river. This is a summer paradise for elephants, their sanctuary.

I look across to the Nambian side of the Chobe and see rural houses, cows, and people in the distance. It seems that the river is a resource that everyone in the area needs to share. And why not? Kasane is one of those amazing places where populations of people are growing alongside the wildlife (see my story about urban wildlife corridors for National Geographic)

It’s getting late and the boat starts to head home. I’ve been flawed by the incredible density of life on the river at this time of year. Having travelled to some of the most wildlife-rich places in Africa and experienced some of the best sightings of elephant herds on the continent, I consider Chobe one of the top places to connect with these amazing beasts.