Once you come over the hills, sweating and feeling like a damp sticky kitchen cloth, you catch a glimpse of its shimmering turquoise waters.
You are somehow rejuvenated by its sight and you push your pedals harder to get nearer. Our first night on Lake Malawi was at Nkhotakota Pottery Lodge. Its run in the same fashion as the lodge in Dedza, with its large pottery workshop on site.
We had a good laugh before we arrived though. We stopped at the neighbouring Mlambe Beach Resort. We inquired the rates and were answered with a gobsmacking 1400MK per person camping.
We just laughed at the man who was clearly trying his luck and turned around. “Let us talk, we make a good price.” The man answered as we rode off. Like we were going to negotiate with a man out to rip you off from the start.
We really enjoyed the camping at Nkhotakota Pottery, hot water and a site for 550MK. Far better than the rip off, which as we later learn’t did not have an operating restaurant either.
Lake Malawi is full of lodges all along the lake shore. Each bay has its own uniqueness and the many inlets and points offer very good snorkeling and diving. The road has led us to Kande Beach south of Chinteche.
On arrival after a 70km ride, Marc and I felt adventurous and swam the 800metres to the island in the lake. We did under estimate the distance, but like all good adventurers we soldiered on and stood on the highest point of the rocky island to claim our stake. The swim back seemed easier, it was probably the fact that we had passed our exhaustion stage and charged with adrenaline.
So here I am typing out a blog for you while the full moon rises over the lake, shining like a search light over the tranquil waters. The soft hypnotic swish of wavelets keep the time here, pulsing all day and night.
Scorpio’s tail embraces around the burning moon as they rise from the East. All worries dissipate as you slowly sip on your MGT (Malawi Gin and Tonic).
If paradise is lost, I’m sure it can be found on the lake.
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