Its been challenging getting from Nkhata Bay to Livingstonia. The idea of the “hard way round” and “off road adventure” stirred our adventurer spirits and so we did not deny ourselves the opportunity.
Our thousand meter assent from Nkhata Bay to Mzuzu was only the start. Only fifty kilometers apart, the ride was strenuous and an all day affair. Each straining pedal burnt our legs, while perspiration soaked us as we pushed through up the winding mountain roads. Every now and then our glasses would fog up as our bodies exhausted in the humid heat.
Many people had cautioned us about the road to Mzuzu. Its full of taxi’s, narrow and steep.
None of it was a lie, but it was a hard ride to make it to Mozoozoo zoo backpackers in time for an afternoon beer.
Rumphi the next day. A small town on the way to the Nyika Plateau. The ride was easy compared to our previous. The accommodation however was touch and go. Cheapest accommodation yet, but who is complaining when your stomach is full and your head rested.
Now came our biggest challenge since the Baviaanskloof crossing. The 77 kilometer to Mushroom Farm was a dirt road over some really challenging terrain.
Mushroom Farm is a highly spoken of in the backpacking circles because of the exquisite view it has over the lake and plains to Tanzania.
We were tested on the dirt road. Soft sand would swamp our front wheels,stopping you dead in your tracks. Long switchbacks on the loose stony passes would send our front wheels astray.
It was really hard, and not only did it take its toll on us, but on the bikes too.
Mud caked chains, gritty transmissions, failing speedometers and worst of all, Marc’s cracked back rim, resulting in an awful buckled back wheel. Good rewards come from hard work.
When setting up camp after our grueling three days of dust, mountains and sweat, we had a sense of euphoria come over us.
We were camping on a cliff, 800 meters above Lake Malawi, thousands of hills and valleys below us folding towards the lake. Tanzania on the horizon, inviting us. We were surprised to find that our friends from Nkhata Bay had not arrived yet.
Mark and Kane Thompson were driving up from Mayoka Village, while James and Caroline were hiking from the Nyika Plateau.
All of them from Sachet Squadron fame were still on their way. We had a good giggle at all of them when they arrived. We had beaten them all here on bikes.
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