I last threw a snowball at the age of six, so when news of weather that’s cold enough to bring snowflakes rings from the radio, I take a chance.
With jackets, jerseys, gloves, tracksuit pants, boots and socks in a suitcase, I pull the beanie tightly over my ears and head south on the N3, crossing fingers and holding thumbs. The weather forecast promises icy conditions in Lesotho, and Golden Gate Highlands National Park is just close enough to perhaps host some of that elusive frozen fairy dust. Just after Warden, I hang a right towards Bethlehem, stopping for self-catering supplies at the supermarkets in town – warming soup? Check.
The wind thrashes about the car and sinister silver clouds gather the closer I get to Clarens – both promising indicators of snow. Will the risk pay off? The Fortuner’s thermometer seems to think so. The Maluti Mountains loom in the distance and a quaint trading store beckons from the road. Maybe wrapping up in a new beautiful Basotho blanket would help bring on a blizzard? Tonight, I sleep in the Basotho Cultural Village on the eastern side of the park. The rondavels are replicas of local villages as they existed in the 18th century and those moody grey clouds bring rain just as I settle in.
A storm hits in the midnight darkness and I’m thankful for the electric blankets, but is it cold enough for snow? Then the electricity cuts out and I realise just how chilly it really is. Morning breaks and I’m too scared to open my eyes. After checking out, I drive to the centre of the park along the Blesbok self-drive loop and there I spot the white carpet dusting the tops of the peaks. The snow isn’t close enough to feel crunching under my boots and it’ll probably melt by midday, but the risk paid off. Triumph! Time for hot chocolate and a toasted egg and bacon to celebrate at Sugar and Cinnamon Restaurant. Who knows, maybe it’ll snow again tonight…
Visit Golden Gate Highlands National Park
Open seven days a week, Golden Gate Highlands National Park is a geological dream and the mountain roads stir the soul with views that’ll have you pulling off the tar.
Cost: Adults R38, children R19.
Contact: Tel 058 255 1000, sanparks.co.za
Glen Reenen Rest Camp
Centrally located, Glen Reenen Rest Camp is the main park camp. Camping is the most affordable option, but this isn’t advisable in the snow. Self-catering rondavels are also available.
Cost: Camping from R180, rondavels from R740 for two adults.
Contact: Tel 058 255 1000, sanparks.co.za
Short walks
There are seven short nature trails in the park. All of them are well marked and maintained, and they’re free once you’ve paid the conservation fee for staying in Golden Gate. Most trails start at Glen Reenen and take an hour to four to walk. No booking is required.
Basotho Cultural Village
Self-catering rondavels styled on local Basotho villages are near the eastern entrance of Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Blesbok and springbok love this area and you’re likely to spot big herds in the early morning. Museum tours and guided trails to learn about medicinal plant use are also available from R740 for two adults.
Cost: From R700 for two people
Contact: sanparks.co.za
The Blanket Shop
This old trading store and blanket shop was built in the 1930s and continues to stock traditional Basotho blankets. You can find it at 449 Naauwpoort Street, Clarens, just off the R712.
Contact: Tel 058 256 1313
Sugar and Cinnamon Restaurant
The Sugar and Cinnamon Restaurant serves complimentary sherry on arrival and there are many tables beside the central glass fireplace. Meal portions are generous and the food is delicious.
Contact: Tel 082 382 3515
Clarens Brewery
You can’t leave this area without stopping over for a freshly brewed glass of beer at Clarens Brewery. Take advantage of the free tastings. Pair your glass with something off the German-inspired menu – I recommend the sausage pieces with relish and warm focaccia.
Contact: Tel 058 256 1193, clarensbrewery.co.za
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